What Are The Common Fabric Stitching and Sewing Defects
As a fabric buyer, you understand the importance of having high-quality fabrics for your customers. However, even with the best quality fabrics, there may still be some minor stitching and sewing defects that can appear during production. Knowing what common errors to look out for will help you identify them quickly so they can be rectified before selling to customers.
In this blog post, we'll discuss all of the various defects that could be present in any fabric so that you can be better informed when making purchasing decisions. So, let's get started.
Fabric Slippage Seam Pucker Seam Slippage Excessive Thread Tension Sewing Machine-Caused Retention Skipped Stitch Broken Material Uneven Stitch Clogged Stitch Thread Breakage
1. Fabric Slippage
Fabric slippage is a common and unwanted defect in the sewing of fabrics. In this phenomenon, the fabric slips away from underneath the stitching as it is created and looped by the needle. This results in loose and uneven stitches, resulting in an unsightly finish.
This issue can arise for various reasons but most commonly occurs due to the tight structure of the material and difficulty penetrating the fabric during stitching. This difficulty is even more pronounced when stitching is done in directions parallel to the weft fabric or bias of the material.
2. Puckering / Seam Pucker
Puckering or seam pucker is a common sewing defect of fabrics. It occurs either at the time of sewing or after washing and consists of the fabric puckering between stitches. This phenomenon is more frequent with woven fabrics, especially thick ones.
The causes of pucker can vary from friction due to excessive tension in the thread selection to retention produced by the sewing machine. In addition, it can be caused by an inadequate slip of the fabric that does not allow for enough space between stitches for fabric movement when washing and drying.
3. Seam Slippage / Seam Grinning
Seam slippage, also called seam grinning, is a common sewing defect in fabrics. It refers to the occurrence of gaps between two sets of stitches which an incorrect tension or stitch length may cause. As a result, these gaps can cause fabric pieces and garments not to hold together correctly, leading to an unsightly appearance.
This defect is often seen in silk and satin fabrics as they are extremely fine materials that require precise adjusting of the tension settings while sewing. Additionally, if the stitch length is too long, it will cause the edges of the fabric pieces to become separated during stitching and subsequent pulling resulting in gaping seams. Poor quality thread used for stitching may also lead to seam slippage due to its inability to withstand the further strain.
4. Excessive Thread Tension
Excessive tension in thread stitching is a common defect in many fabrics. This can occur when too much force is applied to the thread during the sewing process, resulting in irregular stitches and puckering of the fabric.
The cause of this issue is usually due to improper machine settings or using a needle size that does not match the weight of the fabric. Consequently, the thread tries to recover its original length, leading to an uneven pulling of threads and resulting in fabrics with shirred and wrinkled surfaces.
5. Sewing Machine-Caused Retention
Sewing machine-caused retention in sewing defects of fabrics is a common issue encountered by sewers, especially regarding high-density fabrics. This defect occurs when the fabric layers are displaced due to the uneven tension between the top and bottom threads, which is caused by an unbalanced feed drop tension. As the presser foot exerts a higher pressure than the feed dog, it causes an unequal displacement of the fabrics. The seams and stitches can become misaligned or appear wavy on one side.
Furthermore, this problem can be identified when observing if the thread cuts through part of the stitching. If so, this could point toward a retention issue caused by an incorrect tension setting on the sewing machine.
6. Skipped Stitch
A skipped stitch, also known as an elongated stitch, is a sewing defect found in fabrics. It occurs when the stitch length is irregular and longer than the intended length. This can happen when the seam is not properly tensioned, or the fabric has too much slack during stitching. Skipped stitches commonly appear as thread loops on the fabric surface and are easily noticeable.
Not only do the skipped stitches cause unsightly seams, but they can also weaken the integrity of a garment due to reduced stitch density. The cause of skipped stitches is most often attributed to incorrect thread tension, an incorrectly adjusted needle, poor quality thread, and fabric with high stretch properties.
7. Broken Material
Broken material is one of the most common sewing defects in fabrics. It is characterized by a break in the stitching, which often results in perforation along the seam. This defect is caused when the needle used to stitch the fabric penetrates too deeply or has the wrong head type or thickness. In addition, poorly finished or iron-burned fabrics are also prone to broken material defects. Such materials can cause thread breaks and unraveling, resulting in unsightly seams and weak fabric integrity.
8. Uneven Stitch
An uneven stitch is a typical stitching problem of fabrics. It appears as an irregular sewing line, with some stitches noticeably displaced from the seam line. The cause of this issue can be traced back to poor thread quality; for example, threads that are too thin, too thick, or frayed and weak. The irregularity of the stitching line can also be attributed to incorrect tension settings of the sewing machine, or an inexperienced operator who fails to keep a steady pace while sewing.
An uneven stitch has numerous negative impacts on the aesthetic appearance of garments and the overall durability of fabric constructions. Firstly, it creates an unprofessional look that may deter potential customers from purchasing finished products. Secondly, the fabric is more prone to wear and tear due to its weakened structure and inconsistent tension levels. Lastly, irregular stitches may lead to erroneous seam allowances, which could cause gaps in decorative hems and seams.
9. Clogged Stitch
A clogged stitch is a typical sewing flaw that can occur when two fabric layers are joined together. It is characterized by an irregular stitch and is caused by resistance to the sliding of the fabric layers when the seam is carried out.
This resistance can be due to a number of components, such as an inadequate presser foot for the thickness of the tissue, an incompatible feed drop type for the fabric employed, or mismatched stretching properties between the layers. It may also be caused by improper operator handling during sewing, such as dragging or retaining one layer of material during stitching.
10. Thread Breakage
Thread breakage in sewing defects of fabrics is defined as the unintentional snapping or breaking of the thread during the sewing process. It may occur in either the needle thread or the bobbin thread when a stitch is formed and can be caused by various factors. Poor quality thread, an incorrect ratio between thread thickness and needle size, a too thin thread compared to its needle size, excessive tension on stitches, low stitch density, mislocated needles, inadequate lubrication in the bobbin mechanism, overheated needles and improper machine handling are all common reasons for breakages.
Thread breaks can also be caused by poor fabric preparation before stitching. This includes poorly cut seam allowances that are too narrow to handle seam stress and bulky seams due to excess interfacing that strains too much on the threads.
Conclusion
Sewing defects of fabrics are nearly inevitable and can occur for many reasons, ranging from poor fabric preparation to incorrect machine settings. While some can be easily rectified with minor adjustments, others may require the entire piece of material to be reworked. Therefore, sewers and manufacturers need to take measures to avoid such issues. With proper inspection and prevention methods, the quality of finished garments can be greatly improved.
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